New York Fugshion Week: Marc Jacobs Fall 2012


I call this collection, “Mary Pimpins.”

Here’s the thing about Marc Jacobs, for me: Frankly, I often look at his stuff, like this show, and think, “Man, that was probably fun to watch, but those hats are HILARIOUSLY CRACKED OUT.” Full marks to him for that — a fashion show at its best should be equal parts fun and captivating and challenging, and whether you love or hate the clothes, Jacobs’ shows as a moving, breathing art installation are always a spectacle to behold. And obviously we’re not meant to lift this look and place it out of context onto the street, or take it literally; it’s more about the pattern here, the cut of the coat there, the colors everywhere. But it’s just amusing to me that every time we come to Fashion Week, it feels like people are increasingly reluctant or unable to offer any actual criticism of it – I mean, he could send girls down the catwalk in clothes made of peanut shells, and inevitably people would be like, “It’s an intricately woven quilt of Babar the Elephant and Mr. Peanut and dystopian allegory in Charles Schultz with a whimsical nod to The Peanut Allergy Answer Book!”  Which  may be why he goes big every time — people don’t really quite know how to parse it, so they just throw in a lot of adjectives in sentences that ultimately don’t actually say anything. Kind of like I am.

He sent fifty-five looks down the runway; we figure, anyone that desperate to see ALL of them probably already did, but I am too indecisive to distill it to two. So I went halfway. And whether you think it’s aspirational or a brilliant fantasy or a crackfest — there are arguments for all, I suspect — I think you will enjoy it. Have fun.

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Comments (64):

  1. Sevi
    0

    So basically just another run of the mill “i actually hate women” fashion designer. Right?

  2. Julie
    0

    There was one piece in almost every one of the pictures that I kinda liked but when put altogether like that – butt ugly! However I would wear any of the hats to pick up my teenagers at school just to torture them, provided I could fit the hat into my car.

  3. Ines
    0

    i did have fun.
    love the coulours and safety pins and the hats, if they were in a realistic size

  4. Ms.B.
    0

    There are a few where you should have written Helena. Bonham. Carter.

    • Lori
      0

      My thought exactly! HBC would rock every single one of these looks while buying seaweed or dropping off the dry cleaning or whatever.

    • Laura E.
      0

      Yes! HBC was my exact thought, too.

  5. Sarie
    0

    The coat in 22 is really cute. I would wear it. I would also love any one of thous bags.

  6. Sevi
    0

    …btw, just read somewhere 2 of his models for this show are only 14. Idiocy at his best i suppose: dressing children in granny outfits only 30somethings would probably have the cash for.

    • Popcouver
      0

      and here I was cackling about how some of the models were probably so excited to appear in their first NYFW show… until they realized they’d be utterly unrecognizable.

  7. MegO
    0

    Some really look like a toddler took a Barbie doll and mish-mashed some Cocktail Pirate Barbie clothes and some Cabbage Patch kid winter accessories…

  8. Sandra
    0

    This reminds me of the Marian Keyes novel where the protagonist works for an ad agency on the account of a cosmetics company whose image is all “mod, fun, kooky”. The boss makes the women on that account dress weirdly to fit that mode. They all hate it and long for the day when they can wear chic grey wool suits to work like real grown-ups. These are the “before” pictures.

    • Annie
      0

      Ha! I love Marian Keyes. And the book is “Anybody Out There?” for those interested.

  9. nikole
    0

    “And obviously we’re not meant to lift this look and place it out of context onto the street, or take it literally; it’s more about the pattern here, the cut of the coat there, the colors everywhere.”
    Lots of ppl don’t get this part, i’m so glad u pointed it out

  10. Hillary
    0

    Is it weird that this slideshow left me only with the distinct feeling that I do not own enough sparkly socks?

    • anny
      0

      Also Mad Hatter shoes. I don’t have enough sparkly socks or Mad Hatter shoes. They come in green now.

  11. Maria
    0

    That’s a really nice collection…of pimp hats.

    It almost didn’t matter what the model looked like or if they had any make up on at all since their faces were mostly covered up.

  12. PeggyO
    0

    I think there are actually some really pretty pieces in here, it’s just that he seems to have deliberately styled everything so you couldn’t see them. As if he’s afraid that making cute clothes that people will want to buy and wear doesn’t make him “legit”.

  13. Hel
    0

    I hope these shoes never make the transition from runway to streets.

    • TereLiz
      0

      I die a little inside when anyone refers to those glitter-buckled clodhoppers as “shoes”. They’re just horrible!

  14. Willow
    0

    I made a hat identical to this in my first sewing class when I was 7. I genuinely feel I may have a court case on my hands.

  15. Alice
    0

    It’s like The Sorting Hat at a rave!

  16. Tara
    0

    You nailed it with the “Mary Poppins” silhouette call. Plus an odd dash of Pamela-Anderson-post-Tommy-Lee-the-first-time furry pimp hats. Which, oddly, makes me chuckle. Carry on! :)

    • Aphy
      0

      I thought of that too! That huge pink fuzzy thing she stumbled around in. Those clodhopper shoes are also vaguely 90ish too.

  17. Bobbi
    0

    Peel off all the styling and there were some phenomenal coats in there. Next fall I am finding and wearing one of those shoulder wrap/scarves over a skinny black suit , and since I love a good paisely now and then, that first red and black skirt would be perfect with a slimline black cashmere sweater and killer boots.

  18. Maria66
    0

    i actually like the wraps with the large safety pins. I could totally see it translate.

  19. Miz H
    0

    The knit pieces were gorgeous.

  20. Leah
    0

    My mom’s knitting circle is seething with envy.

  21. Amanda
    0

    I half expected to see one of Olsen twins pop out from under there.

  22. spinja
    0

    Marc Jacobs has no clothes.
    Pass it on.

  23. ceecee
    0

    This wasn’t 55 different looks, this was one look in 55 different clashing colors. Since when does wrapping teenagers in random pieces of knitware and shoving the Mad Hatter’s hat on top constitute a line of designer clothes?

  24. LoriK
    0

    When I saw this show my thought was “Pimps in Wonderland”. I’d really rather not be thinking about Alice on the stroll, so I could have done without that As others have pointed out, there are some good pieces in the collection, but it’s as if Jacobs is working really, really hard to keep anyone from noticing.

  25. Clara
    0

    Overall this left me feeling itchy, but I did like the colours, the shawls witth the giant safety pins. I was going to make the hat-getting into the car comment but Julie beat me to it. Touche, Julie!

  26. Vodka Gimlet
    0

    It felt very “though the looking glass” to me. I did enjoy the colors and textures and the fancifulness. It would fun to visit Marc Jacob’s mind for a little while…

  27. liaso
    0

    Is it wrong that I actually really like the skirt in #9? Not the look, just the skirt. Why oh why so many crop pants? I’m the height where crop pants just look like I bought children’s clothes by mistake. They never, ever look good. I like the scarves on #11 and #21. They look cozy and bright. WANT the coat on #23. This slideshow was one of the few times I looked at most of the pictures full size to see the textures.

  28. AM
    0

    Some potentially cute pieces, especially the skirts and coats, mixed with a whole lot of crazy. This actually looks like a sit-com parody of a fashion show, rather than the real thing. This was the real thing, right?

  29. TereLiz
    0

    No, I get it.

    And yes, a lot of the outerwear is gorgeous. But after a good thirty looks, the pieces all start to blend together. And since the looks all appear pretty blended together in the first place, that ain’t good.

    The looks are so busy, it’s hard to remember the stand-out pieces–you’re still trying to wrap your mind around all the layers. Indeed, some of the coats completely obscure anything beneath them.

    One of my fave pieces I finally “saw” on my second view of the stills; the video does give more life to the collection, but can be difficult to really analyze what’s happening here. It’s a gorgeous purple and yellow brocade coat, but the hat topping it made me think “GO TIGERS!” since I’ve seen folks wearing that EXACT hat in these parts on game days. And the bowling-pin silhouette is not one I aspire to when I’m dressing.

    Marc for Marc Jacobs had a lot of intentionally oversize clothes, too. Great if you’re a waif. Not so great if you weigh over 100 pounds. Can you tell I’m still a little sore about this collection? ;)

  30. gryt
    0

    Tim Burton does bag ladies.

    • auntho
      0

      Yeah. Very The Alice of Oz to me. I feel like I just got off an acid trip, sort of like I felt after seeing Burton’s movie. It doesn’t make me mad … but it’s … a lot.

  31. devopet
    0

    Some separate pieces were cute – but is it just me or did he manage to make the skinniest people on earth look huge? I can’t imagine how that stuff would look on me.

  32. Ladyblahblah
    0

    If this is what he’s offering up for his 1992 grunge girls to wear now that they’re in their 40′s, I think heroin is going to be chic again soon because I could only wear these clothes if I was high (and rich, of course).

  33. Amalink
    0

    Oh My God all those pictures and you never mentioned the Pilgrim Shoes?
    The oversized hats, scarves, pins, hips, it all reminded me so much of dolls dressed in clothes meant for a much bigger doll. Like putting your cabbage patch stuff on your friggin’ Barbie. But seriously? What IS with all the giant hips lately? Do these designers not hang out where they can see the real world and know that not every girl comes in size 0 stick figure? Aaarrggghhh

  34. Anna
    0

    Wait…I love the shoes. (And I too could see HBC in almost every outfit. Not #21 but the rest.)

    • mepe
      0

      Me too…for a minute I thought I was the only one! I totally want a pair! But I also generally like the crazy that HBC brings to events and wish I too could pull it off.

  35. Infoqueen
    0

    Helena Bonham Carter channeling Mrs Whatsit.

    • Margaret
      0

      Sorry I’m a week late to the party, but just had to say Mrs. Whatsit is exactly right!

  36. Jael Paris
    0

    Few American designers go for theatrics, and I think critics are scared of Marc running off to show in Paris.

    I like the intentionally big hips. I’m sick of people acting like an hourglass is the best figure imaginable and anything else is flawed. That’s bull. I have big hips. I like them. Deal.

  37. rroseperry
    0

    Great fun? Yes! Clothes? Maybe not.

  38. Angela Gyetvan
    0

    It’s all very “Derelicte Meets Downton Abbey.” (Come to think of it, Will Ferrell and Maggie Smith is a pairing I’d definitely watch.)

    • anny
      0

      If Maggie Smith did Blue Steel she’d have to kill you. Hell, you’d probably already be dead.

  39. Moi
    0

    To me, Marc Jacobs is one of those Emperor’s New Clothes-type designers. Along with Stella McCartney and Marni.

  40. avidbeader
    0

    I liked a few specific things like the shiny metal coat and the blingy red dress, but not the overall hippy silhouette.

    On the other hand I squealed every time I saw one of those crocheted wraps or sweaters, in spite of the giant safety pins. Nice to see one of my crafts represented on a runway.

  41. Sajorina
    0

    He really goes all out for his fashion shows! His designs are definitely pieces of art! I can appreciate the masterful use of colors, patterns, textures & a lot of whimsy! As cracked out as all of it looks when put together, there are beautifully made clothes and accessories! That show would be a must-see for me every year! I loved everything paisley and coats #15, #22 & #23 are TO DIE FOR!

  42. e
    0

    crack is whack MARC!

  43. KG
    0

    That red zebra hat BELONGS to Lil Kim in the 90′s.

  44. Lillibet
    0

    Take the mad hats and buckled shoes away and most of these looks become exquisite. Some beautiful pieces and mixtures of patterns. I love the safety pinned shawls, too.

    An absinthe cocktail for me too, please.

  45. Anna D
    0

    I LOVE it! Haven’t felt this inspired by clothes in a long time!

  46. krista
    0

    i criticized it! here: http://www.allidoistalkandwant.tumblr.com
    but then i have nothing to lose. except maybe any future career prospects at LVMH, and we all knew that was never gonna happen anyway. so balls to the wall! i love Marc, but i agree, he’s at the point where he can just do ANYTHING and people will glance nervously at each other and then smile and nod….

  47. Faye
    0

    You know, Marc Jacob’s stuff for LV for this spring was gorgeous -so feminine and *wearable.* Why does he have to make this cracked-out stuff under his own line?

    The coat in the last slide is the only thing that looks semi-normal, and that’s mostly because of the beautiful color. But the cut! The model looks like she’s pregnant and carrying the baby in her backside.

  48. mepe
    0

    I think this show was hugely inspirational…all the coats, shoes, huge scarves w/ safety pins and awesome sparkly fabrics will be everywhere by Holiday 2013…once it’s dumb-ed so it’s palatable for the masses.

  49. Celia
    0

    For some reason all I could think for all of these is they remind me of something people in the Capitol in the Hunger Games would wear. I hadn’t really thought about it before, but I guess sub consciously the Tim Burton/Alice in Wonderland thing is exactly what they’ve all been wearing in my head.

  50. Shiitake
    0

    Hideous.

  51. Rebekah
    0

    Love the coats and the wrap scarves! Fun show.