So much of this Balmain collection is evocative for me of something else. For example, early on, we get flourishes — like eyeglasses — that feel distinctly Schiaparelli to me, and towards the middle we get what I understand is a labyrinth print from the archives, but which now can only evoke for me the Fendi logo. Maybe its moment has passed? And then there are some Rick Owens-y pointy shoulders. Maybe if all the archival references are too far gone to feel like anything but echoes of more current work, then they’re not the references to pick. Having said that: I’m looking forward to seeing people like Rihanna walking around dressed as giant brooches.