On first blush this collection feels VERY much like it’s all about the sensibilities that Alessandro Michele brought to Gucci during his tenure, but he claims this was all about revisiting the O.G. Valentino maximalism. I’m not a fashion historian, so I will have to take his word for it, but to me this feels SO identifiably him and way less identifiably Valentino. Michele did also mention the tension of designing for a house that does not bear your name, and it made me think… I mean, maybe he should start his own, and erase that tension completely, and also release Valentino from his worse impulses.

[Photos: Launchmetrics Spotlight]